Air to fuel ratio tuning?

[bad moose]

So $300 to $375 get's me started and another $100 to $200 get's me really happy. For how many horse again?

The motoworks gets me in the playing field for $200 but what is meant by holding a tune? On diesel's that means returning back to stock for a little bit and reprogramming.

I'm just a duner and trail rider. I'm looking for better performance than the pink wire, but maybe I should just put the tax money to a good xmx front end.

[hcomras]

honestly if your not a whacko like me and hate being beaten by people (im a VERY sore loser lol) then a motoworks fmi with the stock settings should be fine...later down the road you can always sell the unit for $100 and buy a pc3 and dyno it...

[CANAMracerdad]

I have tuned many a bike on the dyno , FMI fine tuning can be taken too far , soo far that a 12 degree temp change and 10% humidity change affect your a/f ratio
At the pro am level , we all run close to this line ., in the woods or at amatuer level, i do not think that you need to run that lean , a little on the rich side is not a bad thing (cheaper than a burnt piston/cyl because the temp dropped 12 degrees )
Dyno tuning is good , but if you want to spend less and tune yourself , buy the pc-5 , and buy the o/2 sensor , then you can tune it the way you ride it (the best)
the a/f you are trying works o.k , but you cannot put the bike under a load .... w/o the load of the dyno , my motors go from idle to rev limiter in less than 1/2 a second , most a/f meters can only sample 20 or so times a second , I would miss over half of my measuring points , you will too .

[bad moose]

Quote: Originally Posted by hcomras

honestly if your not a whacko like me and hate being beaten by people (im a VERY sore loser lol) then a motoworks fmi with the stock settings should be fine...later down the road you can always sell the unit for $100 and buy a pc3 and dyno it...

Well I'm a power hungry whore! LOL I get that from the diesel side of my life.

But with this debate. I think I might be better off getting the XMX front end and staying where I'm at. For now... And save up for when the engine gets tired then do a mild build. and do the tuning right.

[bad moose]

Quote: Originally Posted by CANAMracerdad

I have tuned many a bike on the dyno , FMI fine tuning can be taken too far , soo far that a 12 degree temp change and 10% humidity change affect your a/f ratio
At the pro am level , we all run close to this line ., in the woods or at amatuer level, i do not think that you need to run that lean , a little on the rich side is not a bad thing (cheaper than a burnt piston/cyl because the temp dropped 12 degrees )
Dyno tuning is good , but if you want to spend less and tune yourself , buy the pc-5 , and buy the o/2 sensor , then you can tune it the way you ride it (the best)
the a/f you are trying works o.k , but you cannot put the bike under a load .... w/o the load of the dyno , my motors go from idle to rev limiter in less than 1/2 a second , most a/f meters can only sample 20 or so times a second , I would miss over half of my measuring points , you will too .

I was researching the pcv and found that they offered another sensor (slip in style). No need for welding a bung in.

If what I'm understanding, once you get it dialed in you shouldn't need to tune agian unless something changes drasitically.

[stb103]

For the money the fmi over pink wire won't snap your neck back. I feel in my opionion the front end will make YOU a better faster rider. More than a little boost. All the power in the world is useless if the chasis can't take it. Again just my opinion.

[bad moose]

That's what I'm thinking. Suspension first then more power doing it right.

Just thought I would throw this out there to see what you guys thought.

[stb103]

Your making a good choice. You'll be faster with that and ride longer, plus it looks cool.