DS450 Engine rebuild (with pictures!)

This is a discussion on DS450 Engine rebuild (with pictures!) within the Engine/EFI/Drivetrain forums, part of the Can-Am DS450 Tech Discussion category; i misunderstood the service bulletin, i thought it added another friction plate, not a clutch plate. looks like it was put together correctly (for the ...


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Engine/EFI/Drivetrain Discuss engine, fuel injection, air intake, and drivetrain modifications to your Can-Am DS450 in here.

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2010, 03:12 PM
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i misunderstood the service bulletin, i thought it added another friction plate, not a clutch plate. looks like it was put together correctly (for the most part lol)
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2010, 03:19 PM
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Does anyone know how to get the magneto off (attached to the crankshaft) and the gear on the opposite side off.

i pried on them with a screwdriver and cant seem to get them off
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:35 PM
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A small, locking, three-jaw puller works well.
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Old 09-22-2010, 03:01 PM
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im still waiting for my parts to come from the dealer. i ordered every gasket i could think of and the inner plate of the clutch (the one thats scarred on page 3)

still waiting on my service manual

also, how much force is required to pull off that gear on the crankshaft, no matter what i do i cant seem to get it off. do you guys use heat? any special tools? or just a huge amount of force? same thing with the magneto.

Last edited by BigRon; 09-22-2010 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:39 PM
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You need the manual. It says the magneto rotor is mounted with loctite 648.

from the manual:

Lock the crankshaft with the crank locking tool p/n 529 036 107 at TDC

Use the screw from the magneto puller p/n 529 035 748

Install the puller screw in rotor -- apply grease on screw threads and screw tip to prevent damage to the threads during removal.

Tighten puller screw to remove rotor
- Use a heat gun and heat rotor.
- Tighten puller screw. Do not overtighten to avoid damaging threads.
- Tap the head of puller screw with a hammer. Rotor should pop out.
- Continue tightening puller screw to remove rotor.

If the gear you talked about is the "Primary Drive Gear", the manual only says to lock the crank at TDC, drain oil, drain cooling system, remove clutch, and ...Remove hex nut and detach drive gear from crank by using a standard two-way puller.
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:52 PM
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Any updates on this? If it is still apart can you get me the size of the oil squirter hole in the clutch case?
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2010, 10:11 PM
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I know that when I had my clutch update done I went to my dealer and did it with them. They are pretty close friends of mine so it was no big deal. But I know for a fact when we did the update we put and extra Clutch (steel) plate in. That is what the bulletin called for so if you have 9 fibers in there that is wrong. They wanted to get rid of a little slack in the clutch so this plate was added to help that. The bulletin states, if i can remember correctly that the extra steel plate is to be installed first and in the opposite direction of the rest. What this means is there is a slight taper on the teeth of the plates and the extra plate needs to be put in with the taper side towards the clutch hub that they ride on! It could be the other way around but I know for a fact that one is installed in the opposite direction of the rest. You might want to check it agian but that is what we did and I was there helping them. The bulletin has a pic of how the plates are to be placed and if you look real close you can see the taper (just on the teeth)! Hope this helps and if i didnt describe it good enough let me know and I will see if I can word it different(Im not very good at describing things sometimes LOL)
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:38 PM
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Hello everyone. I know it's been a while since I've posted but I would like to update everyone on the situation. I moved out and have been going to school and the engine has been in storage. I decided I should finally split the cases once I got the correct tools.

I removed the magneto by buying a bolt that fits into the center, using a MAP gas torch to heat the magneto and an impact wrench to spin it off. the other gears that I was having trouble with came off somewhat trouble-free when I applied a lot of heat.

I found out why the engine was unable to turn.. There was a small piece of the clutch wedged into one of the teeth on the balance shaft gear. This also bent both the balance shaft gear and the crankshaft gear. I should be able to replace these gears for about $100, if I can get a good deal and she'll be back up and running.

Crankshaft gear


Balance Shaft gear


Next I will completely tear down the engine and clean it in a solvent tank so it's brand new. All of the bearings look great, but I will still probably press them out and clean them. I have another project going with my RX-7, so the next update might be in a couple of months.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:32 AM
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Wow!! You're lucky the tooth didn't break.
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08 ds 450
Motworks SR4 G2
BCS Intake w/ KN airfilter
Pink Wire Mod
Streamline 11 pos Steering Stabilizer
Epic a arms w/ kyb remote ressi shocks
XMX rear shock
Yeehawww
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:50 PM
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this is the same thing that happened in my 08 but i caught it before the rivets actually broke, they still caused a groove on my pressure plate my warranty was up but my local dealer did update and ordered me a brand new hinson clutch basket i also got a whole new side cover with the new oiler and they added the clutch plates and fiber , and replaced all parts involved with gaskets but they charged me labor but had to jump through hoops cause i had complained about noise before and dealer said if i changed oil it would quiet down another said thats how the bike should sound very chattery also had to pay for plastic gear on clutch basket
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