 |
|

09-15-2010, 03:12 PM
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Panguitch, UT
Posts: 44
|
|
|
i misunderstood the service bulletin, i thought it added another friction plate, not a clutch plate. looks like it was put together correctly (for the most part lol)
|

09-17-2010, 03:19 PM
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Panguitch, UT
Posts: 44
|
|
|
Does anyone know how to get the magneto off (attached to the crankshaft) and the gear on the opposite side off.
i pried on them with a screwdriver and cant seem to get them off
|

09-17-2010, 04:35 PM
|
 |
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Grottoes, VA
Posts: 291
|
|
|
A small, locking, three-jaw puller works well.
|

09-22-2010, 03:01 PM
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Panguitch, UT
Posts: 44
|
|
im still waiting for my parts to come from the dealer. i ordered every gasket i could think of and the inner plate of the clutch (the one thats scarred on page 3)
still waiting on my service manual
also, how much force is required to pull off that gear on the crankshaft, no matter what i do i cant seem to get it off. do you guys use heat? any special tools? or just a huge amount of force? same thing with the magneto.
Last edited by BigRon; 09-22-2010 at 10:28 PM.
|

09-23-2010, 08:39 PM
|
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 141
|
|
|
You need the manual. It says the magneto rotor is mounted with loctite 648.
from the manual:
Lock the crankshaft with the crank locking tool p/n 529 036 107 at TDC
Use the screw from the magneto puller p/n 529 035 748
Install the puller screw in rotor -- apply grease on screw threads and screw tip to prevent damage to the threads during removal.
Tighten puller screw to remove rotor
- Use a heat gun and heat rotor.
- Tighten puller screw. Do not overtighten to avoid damaging threads.
- Tap the head of puller screw with a hammer. Rotor should pop out.
- Continue tightening puller screw to remove rotor.
If the gear you talked about is the "Primary Drive Gear", the manual only says to lock the crank at TDC, drain oil, drain cooling system, remove clutch, and ...Remove hex nut and detach drive gear from crank by using a standard two-way puller.
|

12-06-2010, 07:52 PM
|
 |
Moderator
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Valley Center KS
Posts: 1,688
|
|
|
Any updates on this? If it is still apart can you get me the size of the oil squirter hole in the clutch case?
__________________
08 ds 450
Motworks SR4 G2
BCS Intake w/ KN airfilter
Pink Wire Mod
Streamline 11 pos Steering Stabilizer
Epic a arms w/ kyb remote ressi shocks
XMX rear shock
Yeehawww 
Sig worthy quotes:
I don't have an attitude. I have a personality you can't handle.
|

12-06-2010, 10:11 PM
|
|
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 45
|
|
|
I know that when I had my clutch update done I went to my dealer and did it with them. They are pretty close friends of mine so it was no big deal. But I know for a fact when we did the update we put and extra Clutch (steel) plate in. That is what the bulletin called for so if you have 9 fibers in there that is wrong. They wanted to get rid of a little slack in the clutch so this plate was added to help that. The bulletin states, if i can remember correctly that the extra steel plate is to be installed first and in the opposite direction of the rest. What this means is there is a slight taper on the teeth of the plates and the extra plate needs to be put in with the taper side towards the clutch hub that they ride on! It could be the other way around but I know for a fact that one is installed in the opposite direction of the rest. You might want to check it agian but that is what we did and I was there helping them. The bulletin has a pic of how the plates are to be placed and if you look real close you can see the taper (just on the teeth)! Hope this helps and if i didnt describe it good enough let me know and I will see if I can word it different(Im not very good at describing things sometimes LOL)
|

03-10-2012, 10:38 PM
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Panguitch, UT
Posts: 44
|
|
Hello everyone. I know it's been a while since I've posted but I would like to update everyone on the situation. I moved out and have been going to school and the engine has been in storage. I decided I should finally split the cases once I got the correct tools.
I removed the magneto by buying a bolt that fits into the center, using a MAP gas torch to heat the magneto and an impact wrench to spin it off. the other gears that I was having trouble with came off somewhat trouble-free when I applied a lot of heat.
I found out why the engine was unable to turn.. There was a small piece of the clutch wedged into one of the teeth on the balance shaft gear. This also bent both the balance shaft gear and the crankshaft gear. I should be able to replace these gears for about $100, if I can get a good deal and she'll be back up and running.
Crankshaft gear
Balance Shaft gear
Next I will completely tear down the engine and clean it in a solvent tank so it's brand new. All of the bearings look great, but I will still probably press them out and clean them. I have another project going with my RX-7, so the next update might be in a couple of months.
|

03-11-2012, 10:32 AM
|
 |
Moderator
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Valley Center KS
Posts: 1,688
|
|
|
Wow!! You're lucky the tooth didn't break.
__________________
08 ds 450
Motworks SR4 G2
BCS Intake w/ KN airfilter
Pink Wire Mod
Streamline 11 pos Steering Stabilizer
Epic a arms w/ kyb remote ressi shocks
XMX rear shock
Yeehawww 
Sig worthy quotes:
I don't have an attitude. I have a personality you can't handle.
|

03-11-2012, 03:50 PM
|
 |
Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: alburgh, vt
Posts: 59
|
|
|
this is the same thing that happened in my 08 but i caught it before the rivets actually broke, they still caused a groove on my pressure plate my warranty was up but my local dealer did update and ordered me a brand new hinson clutch basket i also got a whole new side cover with the new oiler and they added the clutch plates and fiber , and replaced all parts involved with gaskets but they charged me labor but had to jump through hoops cause i had complained about noise before and dealer said if i changed oil it would quiet down another said thats how the bike should sound very chattery also had to pay for plastic gear on clutch basket
__________________
08 ds 450 x, ngk race wires, iridium plugs, full yoshi rs2 , hinson basket, pro taper evo bars, asv clutch , motoworks fmi, k&n , pink wire , chain & sprockets ,blingstar front bumper, -----------  
|
 |
|
Lower Navigation
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
| Search tags for this page |
|
529 035 748, can am ds 450 motor, can am ds 450 motor rebuild, can am ds 450 timing chain adjustment, can-am ds 450 clutch basket, ds 450 clutch rebuild, ds 450 engine, ds 450 engine oil line, ds 450 engine rebuild kits, ds 450 motor, ds 450 rebuild, ds 450 rebuild kit, ds 450 timing marks can am, ds450 can am clutch basket, ds450 engine, ds450x recalls, engine rebuild pics, magneto puller p/n 529035748, pictures on how to put the timing chain on the can am 450 ds, rebuilding ds 450
Click on a term to search our sites for related topics.
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
|