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I have done a few things to my '09 to race in the OXC series in MO. The factory race package is great for harescrambles. Precision Stablizer. Chain and rotor guard to delete low-hanging stock xxc swingarm skid plate. Engine Ice is mandatory!! Dirtworks revalved and changed the spring rate on the rear shock, eliminating the kick-up I had on small logs and g-outs. Trying 3 degrees castor this weekend for tight MO tracks.
Keep an eye on the lower ball joints. I had one break last race. It was only 6 months old, with 5 races plus pratice time when it broke. Luckily I was going up a hill when it broke, so it just sort of came to a stop gradually instead of a trip over the bars. When I got it up on a stand, the other side had play in it also. Going to see if I can find stronger replacement parts next time I change them.
I have bent the tierods from hard tree hits. I am considering getting stronger ones, but I am worried that it will brake the tie-rod ends if I make the rods stronger. I would rather bend something and finish than break something and DNF. Has anyone had trouble with the rod ends after using stronger tie rods?
Overall I love this quad for harescrables. I will buy another DS xxc if I ever wear this one out.
I run the ASR tie rods and if you where to hit a tree hard enough to break the tie rod end, then you'll probably bend the a arms and do some other damage to the bike. It takes a huge impact to bend or break them.
 

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Thanks for all the tips fellas.... I am picking up an '11 XC model a week from today. I plan to run select AWRCS and some of the PA Harescramble Series out here in the eastern part of Pennsylvania.

The XC model does come with the radiator grille thing and added frame supports already, correct? I've also been approved for the X Team thing, so getting the race ECU and pipe as well. What else comes along with that for the 2011 models???

Basically, my initial checklist should be:

Engine Ice
Inline Cooler
Precision Stabilizer
Houser Tie-Rod's
Rear Sprocket Guard
Rear Rotor Guard
Somewhere I read about a 13T sprocket being better?
Kill Switch

Thanks!!!
 

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Other thoughts for the road.
I had my fuel injector just quit working, some how got plugged, keep extra relays and fuses on hand unless you ship your wiring harness off to BCS (a definate must have to prevent problems during a two hour race) might also look at doing the subframe lowering kit, i wouldn't ride another can-am without it. Ten times less topsy turvy. Somehow broke the plastic T that splits the radiator hose that comes off the top of the radiator bottom of the resevior tank and motor, it decided to break half way through a race, have went through 3 clutch cables, wash wash wash, then blow dry so water doesn't sit and sieze or rust in places and cause problems later, keep a grease gun and lube on hand but thats a given. Also best tires i have ever ran on anything ive rode are maxxis ballance 21X11X9 keeps the clearance from the bottom of the skid plate hanging you up, and enough bite to push you through the mud the guy beside you is stuck in. im sure theres other things but im tired of listing my problems lol
 

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Other thoughts for the road.
I had my fuel injector just quit working, some how got plugged, keep extra relays and fuses on hand unless you ship your wiring harness off to BCS (a definate must have to prevent problems during a two hour race) might also look at doing the subframe lowering kit, i wouldn't ride another can-am without it. Ten times less topsy turvy. Somehow broke the plastic T that splits the radiator hose that comes off the top of the radiator bottom of the resevior tank and motor, it decided to break half way through a race, have went through 3 clutch cables, wash wash wash, then blow dry so water doesn't sit and sieze or rust in places and cause problems later, keep a grease gun and lube on hand but thats a given. Also best tires i have ever ran on anything ive rode are maxxis ballance 21X11X9 keeps the clearance from the bottom of the skid plate hanging you up, and enough bite to push you through the mud the guy beside you is stuck in. im sure theres other things but im tired of listing my problems lol
Thanks for your input, much appreciated! What did you do to prevent the rad from clogging up?
 

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I have the 2010 louver thats in front of the radiatior plus i have outerwears like warnert race team uses for really muddy races but then clean the radiator after a couple races or right after really muddy races
 

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Is the BCS Sprocket Guard enough, or do I also need some type of chain guide? I have a BCS that I am selling to gregory because it just doesn't seem 'right' for XC. Is there a better alternative out there? What do Bithell/McGill use?

Thanks!
 

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Blingstar have the sprocket anod rotor guard
 

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Blingstar have the sprocket anod rotor guard
Thanks, but I already have a sprocket and rotor guard. Just curious if I needed a chain guide as well, and if there was one out there that is XC-rated.

Thanks!!!
 

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The BCS chain guide works fine, i saw on the forum that its a must have for racing !
 

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Is the BCS Sprocket Guard enough, or do I also need some type of chain guide? I have a BCS that I am selling to gregory because it just doesn't seem 'right' for XC. Is there a better alternative out there? What do Bithell/McGill use?

Thanks!
Bithell and McGill run a custom chain guide made by Warnert that is pretty low profile, but unless you having a bunch of issues with your chain falling off I wouldn't worry about it.
 

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The Blingstar sprocket guard comes with a nice thick piece of alluminum that bolds onto the swingarm where the old swing arm skid plate. I just used it for some pretty serious cross country riding last week and it's pretty awesome. It also acted as a saw/drive gear in a log I otherwise with a regular skid plate, would have been hung up on.

Are you running a good steering stabilizer?
 
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